傈僳非遺的國際邂逅

Lisu Intangible Heritage Encounters with an International Brand

火草麻布是傈僳婦女取下火草絨毛捻成線，混合麻線制作而成。

傈僳族婦女正在制作火草麻布。

Sheme品牌的藝術(shù)鞋履作品。

在涼山彝族自治州德昌縣的傈僳族中，傳承著一種古老的紡織工藝——用“火草”“火麻”的植物纖維紡織而成的火草麻布來制作服飾。火草是當(dāng)?shù)厣缴仙L的一種植物，葉背有一層薄膜般的白色絨毛，傈僳婦女取下絨毛后捻成線，再混合麻線織入布中，形成獨(dú)具特色的火草麻布。

In the Liangshan Yi Autonomous Prefecture's Dechang County, among the Lisu people, an ancient weaving technique has been passed down - using plant fibers from "fire grass" and "linen" to weave a unique fabric called fire grass linen cloth. Fire grass is a plant that grows on local mountains, with leaves covered by a thin layer of white fur on the underside. Lisu women remove the fuzz, twist it into threads, and mix it with linen yarn to weave the fabric, producing the distinct fire grass linen cloth.

2016年初，熊國秀牽頭成立德昌縣國繡傈僳火草麻布制作專業(yè)合作社，使火草麻布技藝得到復(fù)蘇與傳承。

In early 2016, Xiong Guoxiu led the establishment of the "Dechang County Guoxiu Lisu Fire Grass Linen Cloth Production Cooperative", helping to revive and preserve the fire grass linen weaving craft.

無獨(dú)有偶，在千里之外的德國杜塞爾多夫，誕生于中國成都的高端鞋履品牌Sheme，也行使著相似的使命。Sheme是首個(gè)且多次登上倫敦時(shí)裝周、巴黎高定時(shí)裝周的中國高端女鞋品牌。自2021年起，它以中國56個(gè)民族的文化為靈感源泉，相繼推出以珞巴族、彝族、怒族為主題的藝術(shù)鞋履作品，并積極將蜀繡、盤扣等非遺技藝運(yùn)用于鞋履之上。

In Düsseldorf, Germany, a high-end footwear brand born in Chengdu, China, called Sheme, carries out a similar mission. Sheme is the first and multiple-time participant at London Fashion Week and Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week, and it is a luxury Chinese women's shoe brand. Since 2021, Sheme has drawn inspiration from the cultures of the fifty-six ethnic groups of China, launching artistic footwear collections themed around the Lhoba, Yi, and Nu ethnic groups. The brand has also actively incorporated intangible cultural heritage techniques, such as Sichuan embroidery and Chinese knotting, into its shoe designs.

2025年春夏，Sheme將推出根植于四川涼山州傈僳族文化習(xí)俗的系列作品，并在合作模式上，做出前所未有的改變……

In the spring and summer of 2025, Sheme will launch a collection rooted in the cultural customs of the Lisu people in Liangshan, Sichuan, and make unprecedented changes to its collaborative approach.

曾經(jīng)山野中不起眼的草葉，如今也有了走上國際舞臺的機(jī)會。

What was once an unremarkable grass leaf in the wild now has a chance to step onto the international stage.

中文作者：四川國際傳播中心記者 曲萍

英文作者：四川國際傳播中心記者 劉動

攝影：曲萍